PC Training

Can you introduce yourself?

"We're 3 trainers at the head of PC Training, Alexis, Antoine and Maëlle, who've been passionate about climbing for many years. We met while studying for a Master's degree in "Entraînement et Optimisation de la Performance Sportive" in Grenoble. We wanted to put competent coaches in touch with climbers who were motivated and involved in their progression. Little by little, our teams are growing: we're now 5 coaches!"

What made you decide to become coaches? Why this focus on climbing?

"We are first and foremost climbers, and have been for a long time! It's a sport that fascinates us because of its complexity, diversity and community. I think we wanted to become coaches to pass on this passion and our skills to help climbers. There's a lot to develop in the climbing world and it's very motivating."

What prompted you to create PC Training?

"First of all, we realized that there were a lot of adult climbers looking to train, and that they were finding it difficult to find a setting. Then we quickly realized that with several people, we could have more resources to make great projects. We also find that there are a lot of preconceived ideas and myths about training in climbing, and we're keen to provide climbers with reliable, well-sourced information to raise the profile of training in our sport." 

What is your approach to training and coaching? How do you adapt your programs to suit individual needs?

"Our aim is to offer each climber the most efficient training possible, while maintaining a balance with the pleasure of climbing, so that they can progress faster, perform better and reduce the risk of injury. To achieve this, we try to base our approach on both scientific knowledge and our experience in the field. To adapt our training programs, we spend a great deal of time identifying each climber's strengths and weaknesses, so as to determine the most appropriate approach to their objectives. To do this, we use the climbers' feelings, but one of our particularities is also to use physical tests which enable us to objectively and precisely quantify the qualities of each climber."

What advice would you give to climbers aspiring to achieve a high level of performance?

"Simple, basic things can go a long way: keep pleasure at the heart of your practice, vary your climbing supports, don't rely solely on your strengths, and learn the basics of training organization. Finally, aim for regularity rather than trying to do big training weeks that you won't be able to keep up over time."

What's your best memory of a moment that left a lasting impression on you?

"Alexis: It was when I got feedback from the first climbers I was training in 2021, and saw that they were passing levels they'd been stuck in for several years, and that pains that had been lingering for several months were fading. I realized the enormous impact I could have.  

Antoine: What really gets me going is the moment when you arrive at a competition with the climbers I'm coaching: the emotions, the anticipation, the tension, the desire to give your best after a lot of preparation. And above all, the feeling of accomplishment and the happiness of the climbers when it works, which makes each competition memorable. 

Maëlle: There's no one memory in particular that stands out for me, but what touches me the most is when the climbers I train are happy with their progress or that they've reached their goals."

And as a climber, what's your best memory/a moment that stood out for you?

"Alexis: During the 2nd lockdown, we rented a house in a bouldering area with a group of friends (we had the right to climb thanks to our studies). We climbed a lot and had a great time. That's where I met Antoine. 

Antoine: Perhaps one of the moments that made the biggest impression on me was when I arrived at the STAPS in Grenoble and started climbing. My classmates were all already very good at a solid level 8 or 9, and I found that very impressive. One of them in particular, Nico, a legend of the cuvette, dragged me to the most difficult cliffs in Grenoble right from the start and pushed me up my routes when I was still very scared of climbing 6. It showed me just how inclusive climbing is, and that at every level you have a challenge and get support from your buddies. 

Maëlle: I think it's the sequence of my first 8a, because it was unexpected. It was the last run of the trip just before I left and I hadn't managed all the moves yet, and I managed to put in a run without any mistakes, in a state of hyper-concentration. It's really nice when everything goes well like that.

More and more climbers are getting their information via the networks. What role do you give to social networks in spreading your message?

"A big place! Social networks are a great tool for sharing our knowledge with climbers, it's free and reaches a lot of people. We try to regularly offer interesting content whether it's quick content on Instagram or longer formats on Youtube."

What does the phrase "better living your sport" mean to you?

"We think it's something that's very personal and different for each athlete, but the general idea is to be able to experience moments that thrill us, it can be surpassing ourselves, spending good times with friends, being in better health,..."

Do you have any other hobbies apart from climbing?

"It's all about climbing! A bit of computing and skiing/mountaineering from time to time. In trip grimpe it's also all the good times we spend outside the cliffs, camping with friends, on days off."

Do you have any plans/ideas for the coming years that you'd like to share?

"Haha absolutely!We're opening a training hub at Le Perchoir (in Crolles) where there will be everything climbers dream of for training: a kilter board, a huge tiltable spray wall, a modular slab, gullich, hangboards, physical preparation gear, training services, ... We also have other projects, for example workshops / training on training for climbers or a podcast with guests to discuss training."