KEVIN ARC

INTERVIEW COACH
Presentation
KEVIN ARC

Kevin is a former pro climber, a cliff climber up to 9A+, a boulderer up to 8C, and a competitor on a few world cups in diff and bouldering. Oriented towards coaching for over fifteen years, he has trained several big names, such as Sean McColl, Mejdi Schalck, Naïlé Meignan and Clotilde Pfister. 

He is the author of the book “Escalade Training”, considered by many climbers to be a bible of climbing training exercises. 

He also takes care of the climbing part at Vertical’Art Nantes. 

His projects:

Today, Kevin has 3 main projects: 

  • Write a 2nd book on training planning. 
  • Develop high-level performance in the Pays de la Loire region, where he lives. 
  • Continue to evolve with the athletes he trains. 

Kevin shares his vision of climbing with us:

Hello! I'm 35 years old, I'm a dad (of a 1 month old little girl at the time of writing), of two huskies and two cats ;)  You could say that I have a large family! 

I am a former climber, crag climber up to 9A+, blocked climber at 8c, competitor in several world cups in diff and bouldering.   

Currently an executive at Vertical Art, I take care of the climbing part in Nantes, and I am in support in the West of France.  I also set up a business in private coaching 2 years ago, after around fifteen in micro-business. I'm not bored...😉  

I can't say if I have an atypical background, but basically I come from the high mountains.  From the long routes in Trad, I moved on to the rind, then, with the aim of performance in the gym 🙂

So here I am, pulling on plastic! Enough to make purists jump off the cliff ;) 

I didn't really choose it. The transition happened naturally. Let's say that at the start I was supposed to be 80% climbing 20% ​​coaching, and over time I got to 90% coaching 10% climbing. I really started with the Chambérian team (Paul Jenft, Luce Douady, Naïlé Meignan, Mejdi Schalk, Valentin Lecomte, Lisa Cherblanc and so on…), to arrive today at coaching athletes in the private sector, such as as Naïlé Meignan or Clotilde Pfister.

The question that is not getting any younger, I just turned 15 years old ahaha! As a start, I think it will now be a good fifteen years or more, and the coaching will be about the same. And it’s grown over the last 4 years!

I always try to adapt as much as possible to the person, to stick to their personality, their qualities and their means, not to impose my vision on them! It’s not always easy, but it’s also what motivates me: I take each coaching session as a challenge, a challenge that we have to accomplish together!  

I appreciate athletes who invest themselves and look for the logic behind each cycle/session/exercises. I always plan the sports project over the long term, it sets a framework. Depending on the exchanges and feedback, I readjust and reorganize my vision and my planning on a daily basis; while keeping a broad guideline :) 

To remain patient. Not to skip the steps, and above all, not to forget that to progress in climbing, you must first climb! 😁

Then, to vary the climbing spots, not to stay confined to your room: each climber has a style. It would be limiting to stay climbing in the same place all the time. 

It’s a memory that spans a long period of time, with an athlete that I have followed since a very young age. 

It begins with a return to climbing, a complicated year of training, a lot of sacrifices and up-and-down results, then a title of Young Bouldering World Champion. The line is drawn towards the World Cups, and comes to an abrupt end with knee surgery.  

Two and a half years later, 2 knee operations, and incredible self-sacrifice in training: 1st podium in the Bouldering World Cup! What an incredible journey, what a mentality!  

I would tend to say to Ceüse, in Biography! I put my tests in full swing (for Ceüse), knowing that I don't have a lot of patience, so waiting for the condi was not my thing 😅 

In my best attempts, I fell into the end tank (if you don't count the last, easier meters). And when I fell in the boulder at the beginning, I went straight back and continued the route. We can say it: chip mentality…  

I actually hadn’t planned on writing one. I wanted to improve the educational support of my coaching. The photos and texts were written and corrected with the help of Hervé Di Dominico for this purpose. It turns out that I crossed paths with Jonathan Bel Legroux, specialist and author in self-hypnosis at Amphora (publishing house)... 

A desire to share, that other specialists also take the time to communicate and exchange their vision.  

Challenge readers, get them to ask questions about their practice and why not discuss together 🙂

Yes, a thank you to the many people who contributed to the project!

Take pleasure. Even when the coach imposes 3 days of rest or a relaxation session on you😉

I had started doing a lot of downhill mountain biking, but between work, business development and my family life, I had to make choices.   

Currently I'm 200% focused on coaching and openness, it takes a lot of time and energy... but that's the thing that bothers me :) 

A 2nd book on training planning. We should start writing soon with Hervé.  

A high-level development project in the Pays de la Loire region.  

More generally, continue to evolve with the athletes I train, keep an open mind and not rest on what I have learned, continue to train, learn, and question myself:)