Kevin Arc

Can you introduce yourself?

"Hello! I'm 35 years old, a father (of a 1-month-old girl at the time of writing), two huskies and two cats ;) You could say I have a large family! 

I'm a former climber, cliff climber up to 9A+, boulderer on 8c, competitor on a few diff and boulder world cups.   

Currently a manager with Vertical'Art, I'm in charge of the climbing business in Nantes, and I'm on call to help out in the west of France. I've also been running a private coaching business for the past 2 years, after working for about 15 years as a micro-entrepreneur. I never get bored... 😉 "

How did your passion for climbing come about?

"I wouldn't know if I had an atypical background, but basically I come from a high-mountain background. From the big routes in Trad, I moved on to the rind, then, with a view to performance in the gym 🙂

From the rocks, here I am shooting on plastic!Enough to make the cliff purists jump ;) "

Why did you choose to become a trainer?

"I didn't really choose it. It was a natural transition. Let's just say that at the start I was supposed to be 80% climbing, 20% coaching, and over time I came to 90% coaching, 10% climbing. I really started with the Chambéri team (Paul Jenft, Luce Douady, Naïlé Meignan, Mejdi Schalk, Valentin Lecomte, Lisa Cherblanc and so on...), and today I coach athletes in the private sector, such as Naïlé Meignan or Clotilde Pfister". 

How long have you been practising?

"The question that's not getting any younger, I've just turned 15 ahaha! In the opening, I think it's going to be about fifteen years or more now, and coaching about the same. And it's really taken off in the last 4 years!"

What is your approach to training and coaching? How do you adapt your programs to suit individual needs?

"I always try to adapt myself as much as possible to the person, to fit in with their personality, qualities and resources, and not to impose my vision on them! It's not always easy, but that's also what motivates me: I take each coaching session as a challenge, a challenge we have to accomplish together! I appreciate athletes who invest themselves and who look for the logic behind each cycle/season/exercise. I always plan the sports project for the long term, which sets a framework. Depending on exchanges and feedback, I readjust and reorganize my vision and my planning on a daily basis; all the while keeping a broad guideline 🙂 "

What advice would you give to climbers aspiring to achieve a high level of performance?

"To remain patient. Don't miss a step, and above all, don't forget that to progress in climbing, you must first and foremost climb!😁 Then, vary your climbing spots, and don't stay confined to your own gym: every opener has his or her own style. It would be limiting to stay climbing in the same place all the time."

What's your best memory of your time as a trainer?

"It's a memory that spans a long period of time, with an athlete I've been following since she was very young. 

It all began with a return to climbing, a complicated year of training, lots of sacrifices and a series of mixed results, followed by the title of World Youth Champion in bouldering. The line was drawn towards the World Cup, but came to an abrupt halt with knee surgery.  

Two and a half years later, 2 knee operations, and incredible self-sacrifice in training: 1st bouldering World Cup podium! What an incredible journey, what a mindset!"

What's your best memory of a moment that marked you as a climber?

"I'd be inclined to say to Ceüse, in Biography! I'd put my attempts in the middle of the doldrums (for Ceüse), knowing that I don't have a lot of patience, so waiting for the condi wasn't my thing 😅 In my best attempts, I'd fall into the end bin (if you don't count the easier last few meters). And when I'd fall into the beginning boulder, I'd go straight back up and do the route. You could say it: mental chips...".

Why did you write a book?

"In reality, I hadn't planned to write one. I wanted to improve the pedagogical support for my coaching. The photos and texts were written and corrected with the help of Hervé Di Dominico with this in mind. It just so happened that I crossed paths with Jonathan Bel Legroux, specialist and author in self-hypnosis at Amphora (publishing house)... "

What impact did you hope this book would have on the climbing community?

"A desire to share, for other specialists to also take the time to communicate and exchange their vision. To challenge readers, get them to ask questions about their practice, and why not exchange ideas together 🙂 "

Are there any other points you'd like to share about this book?

"Yes, a thank you to the many people who contributed to the project!"

What does the phrase "live your sport better" mean to you?

"Having fun. Even when the coach gives you 3 days off or a stretching session 😉 "

Do you have any other hobbies apart from climbing?

"I'd started out doing quite a bit of downhill mountain biking, but between work, business development and family life, I had to make choices. Right now I'm 200% focused on coaching and opening up, which takes up a lot of my time and energy... but it's the thing that gets me going 🙂 "

What are your future plans in the climbing world?

"A 2nd book on training planning. We should start writing it soon with Hervé.  

A high-level development project for the Pays de la Loire region.  

More generally, to continue to evolve with the athletes I train, to keep an open mind and not rest on my achievements, to continue to train, learn and challenge myself :) "