Manon hangboard training: developing strength and endurance for climbing

The hangboard a key tool in climbing training when it comes to developing finger strength and specific endurance. Used for many years bythree-time French difficulty champion Manon Hily in her preparation, it allows for targeted work on the physical qualities that are crucial for progressing in both bouldering and difficulty climbing.

Unlike a full gym session, the hangboard strength production. It removes the complexity of movement to focus effort on the ability to pull, hold, and repeat contractions under stress. When structured properly, it is an extremely effective tool for making lasting progress in climbing.

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Why incorporate hangboard training hangboard your climbing routine?

hangboard training allows hangboard to specifically target finger strength, pulling power, and local muscle endurance. These qualities directly influence your ability to hold demanding holds, lock out movements in an extended position, or maintain prolonged effort on a route.

The hangboard also hangboard a measurable and reproducible training environment. The holds are fixed, the load is controlled, and protocols can be structured with precision. This consistency facilitates your progress, provided you adhere to the fundamental principles of recovery and progression.

Pull-ups: develop your overall pulling strength

Manon uses the hangboard a pull-up bar to build overall upper body strength, which is essential for effectively transferring the force generated by your fingers.

You can start by doing bodyweight pull-ups, carefully controlling the upward and downward movements to optimize the quality of the movement. Full range of motion and scapular stability should remain a priority. Controlled execution helps protect the shoulder while improving the effectiveness of the pull.

To further develop maximum strength, Manon recommendsadding weight rather than increasing the number of repetitions. By reducing the volume while increasing the intensity, you will challenge your strength production capabilities more. Working in cycles with an appropriate load and a limited number of repetitions will allow you to achieve more measurable and lasting progress. Be careful, if you have been climbing for less than a year, don't start adding weight right away. Learn the correct movement and form and make sure you can do it properly before adding weight.

You can also incorporate explosive pull-ups to develop pulling power. This quality becomes particularly useful in dynamic bouldering movements, where the ability to generate force quickly plays a decisive role.

One-arm pull-ups are reserved for experienced climbers. They place a lot of strain on the rotator cuff and require excellent technical control. Without sufficient scapular control, the risk of shoulder overload increases rapidly.

Manon Hily's challenge for you: how many pull-ups can you do in 10 seconds? Try to beat Manon: 10 pull-ups in 10 seconds.

Developing maximum finger strength on hangboard

Maximum finger strength is one of the key determinants of climbing performance. It directly influences your ability to hold small, demanding holds during short but very intense movements.

Working at maximum strength is based on a few key principles. Rest periods must be long enough to allow for complete nervous system recovery. Manon therefore recommends waiting at least three and a half minutes between each repetition. The volume is deliberately limited, while the intensity must be high.

To identify your maximum strength zone, Manon considersthat holding a suspension for around four to five seconds corresponds to an appropriate intensity. If you can hold it for much longer, the grip is probably too comfortable. Conversely, if you fail immediately, the grip is probably too demanding.

The choice of grip should always be adapted to your level. There is no point in selecting a hold that is too small if your technique or strength capacity does not allow you to work in good conditions. A challenging but controllable grip promotes more effective and safer work.

In most cases, this maximum strength work is performed using both arms. One-arm work can be considered at an advanced level, but it requires excellent shoulder stability and great technical precision.

Building strength on hangboard the 10/6 protocol

To develop specific finger strength, Manon uses the following repetition format: 10 seconds of effort followed by 6 seconds of rest. 

She can perform this exercise in two different ways: 

• 3 sets of 12 repetitions 
• 2 sets of 24 repetitions

1 repetition = 10 seconds of effort followed by 6 seconds of rest.

This type of protocol improves your ability to maintain repeated contractions under stress. This quality is particularly useful in routes and difficult climbs, but it is also relevant on long, continuous boulders.

The choice of grip plays a decisive role in the success of the exercise. Take the time to try out different grips to find the one that best suits your level. It should be neither too deep nor too small, as you will have to hold it for a long time and repeat many suspensions. The goal is to maintain a consistent quality of suspension rather than causing premature failure.

If you are unsure about which grip to use, start by doing the exercise with a relatively comfortable grip to validate the protocol before gradually increasing the difficulty.

How to structure a complete hangboard session

A structured session allows you to optimize adaptations and limit the risk of overload. The order of the exercises is important.

We recommend starting with a full warm-up that includes joint mobilization and finger and shoulder activation. You can find Manon Hily's warm-up routine in our article: Climbing warm-up: how to properly prepare your body before climbing. General strength training via pull-ups can then be incorporated. Maximum finger strength should be achieved when the nervous system is still fresh, before resistance training. The 10/6 protocol can be done at the end of the session to test your ability to repeat the effort.

This organization allows you to work successively on maximum strength and then on the ability to maintain it.

Choosing the right hangboard improve

To effectively structure your hangboard training, choosing the right equipment is crucial. A good hangboard offer a variety of grips so you can gradually adjust the difficulty level according to your skill level and goals.

To get started or build a solid foundation, models such as the VerticalBoard First or VerticalBoard Light offer easier and more accessible holds. They allow you to work on your suspension technique, pull-ups, or initial resistance protocols while limiting the risk of overloading your fingers.

To take your training further without changing hangboard you progress, there is the VerticalBoard One, which offers great versatility with different depths of holds and a variety of grip types. The VerticalBoard Evo is designed for climbers who want to explore more difficult and specific holds and deepen their strength training.

Regardless of the model you use, the key is to choose holds that are suited to your level and to gradually increase the intensity in order to protect your fingers and shoulders in the long term. You can compare them in more detail in the second part of this pageor take our quiz to help you find the right hangboard.

In conclusion

hangboard training hangboard a particularly effective tool for developing finger strength and specific endurance in climbing. However, its effectiveness depends on the quality of its structure, adherence to rest periods, and the careful selection of holds.

Appropriate intensity, controlled progression, and sufficient recovery remain the fundamental principles for sustainable progress.

⚠️ Important

The advice, protocols, and recommendations we share are developed in collaboration with our partner coaches and physical therapists. Learn more about them here.

Every climber is different: always adapt the exercises to your level, listen to your body, and if you experience pain, have doubts, or questions, consult a healthcare professional or certified trainer.